It is now mid spring at Shibui Bonsai and trees are all growing. That means I spend a fair bit of time trimming new growth.
My maples were pinched as they started to extend new shoots but I haven’t been able to continue trimming for a couple of weeks so the shoots have now extended.
The long shoots are now cut just above the first leaves.
After trimming the outline of the canopy is now neat again.
Buds at the base of each remaining leaf will now start to grow so where there was one shoot soon there will be 2 growing. In this way we add ramification to our bonsai.
This one is a developing pre bonsai. It is one of the tridents I dug from the grow beds last winter.
It has grown well and roots are now out the bottom of the pot.
That means it is now safe to do some pruning.
The shoots I intend to keep for branches have been left long but I’ve bent the tips down so that the base of these branches now comes away from the trunk at a better angle. i could wire each one and bend it that way but this is far quicker, just as effective and there’s no danger of the wire marking the tender bark. the initial bend will usually be set in just a week or 2. after that the shoot will be pruned back to leave 1 or 2 pairs of leaves.
At the apex I’ve left one selected shoot a bit longer. that one should grow quicker than the others to develop the future apex. when it is stronger the others will probably be pruned off.
Native bonsai are also growing strongly. Here’s a banksia with plenty of new shoots that are ready for trimming.
Trim these similar to the trident maple by cutting back just above the lowest leaves.
Kunzea parvifolia has many growing shoots.
Far too many to cut each one individually so I just shear these like trimming a hedge.
I’ve tried to trim so there’s some different levels on different branches rather than just giving it a smooth, rounded top.
Today is the spring equinox. days are definitely longer and getting slowly warmer. The bonsai have noticed and many of the deciduous trees have started to grow.
Trident maples are among the first to leaf out.
Chinese elms also have new spring clothes on
And some of the Japanese maples are also starting to put on new leaves.
Watering becomes important when the trees are making new leaves. They seem to use more water now than later in summer when growth starts to taper off so monitor your pots from now on and water when needed.
By spring sales stock at Shibui Bonsai are usually at the lowest levels. Most of the trees Shibui offers are grown on site. We dig new trees from the grow beds in late winter and pot them up but it takes a few months for those trees to grow new roots. Shipping trees with tender new roots would likely damage those fragile roots as the tree is jostled and shaken in transport. To give you the best stock I don’t ship trees until I am sure the new roots are strong enough to handle the rigors of the postal service.
Quick growing, resilient species like maples and Chinese elms are usually ready for sale around November. Pines and junipers are much slower to re-establish so those are not usually offered until well into summer.
Right now Shibui Bonsai only have a few pre bonsai trees left from the previous season’s list. Photos below show what we still have as of early September. You can find individual pictures of these in the current catalogues or email and ask for current individual photos. just quote the numbers from the pots so i know which tree(s) you want to look at.
The good news is that new Shibui trees are currently settling into fresh pots. In the pictures you can see the new buds just starting to emerge. This crop of Root over Rock tridents look like some of the best I’ve produced but I have only potted up a few Japanese maples and Chinese elms this year. As mentioned, these should be ready for sale in November this year. The rest of the field grown trees went back into the grow beds to continue developing so they will be bigger and better next year.
For those looking for smaller and younger trees there are always plenty of starters in 11 and 15 cm pots so just let me know what species you are interested in. Some clues as to what shape and size you are thinking of will help narrow down the possibilities as well.
It is officially spring here at Shibui Bonsai and, this year, the trees match the calendar. Most of the trident maples have begun to open new buds with those lovely red new leaves. Here are a couple of my trident maples today.
Most of the Chinese elms have also started to unfold new leaves. Chinese elms start off with brilliant green buds.
Finally for today, a crab apple. Leaves have opened fast this year. Flowers should follow soon after. This one is old enough to have developed plenty of fruiting spurs so it is usually a mass of flowers. Crab apple flowers come and go pretty quick but I’ll try to catch it at its best for you.
In the last Shibui Bonsai post I showed how I start root over rock trident maples. They are then planted in large pots or boxes in the nursery for the summer. I find the nursery is the best place because the trees get regular water that can trickle down between the rock and foil and keep any of those shorter roots alive until they grow long enough to reach out the bottom and into the potting mix.
I generally leave these trees untouched for the entire summer. More growth up top means more root growth below soil level and that’s exactly what I want.
Here are a couple of the root over rock trees I started last year.
This is the part I really look forward to. These trees have been growing all year but we can’t see what is developing below the soil. Will the results be great, OK or terrible?
At this stage, after just a year of growth, it is still possible to move some roots if necessary to improve the look. You can see that in many cases, new white roots have started to grow down the rock. In some cases I’ll remove some roots if it looks like there are too many. I want to see that there is a rock in amongst those roots. Too many and, as the roots thicken, the rock will be completely covered.
Now the trees are wrapped again with fresh foil and planted for another year of growth and thickening. All of these had plenty of roots from the bottom of the foil so could go into the grow beds for maximum growth. If few roots have extended to reach the bottom of the rock I’ll put those back into the nursery for another year of intensive watering.
Spring is rapidly approaching at Shibui bonsai nursery. Some of the Chinese elms already have tiny green shoots opening so the trident maples can’t be far away from starting to grow too. That means I need to get on with any jobs that involve root work.
Making new root over rock plantings is one of those jobs, so this week I emptied out a polystyrene box of last year’s trident seedlings to select some candidates for new root over rock plantings.
Raw seedlings rarely have enough roots to wrap over the rocks so I prepare for root over rock plantings a year ahead. I take one year old seedlings and cut the thickest root so the seedling now has just a couple of lateral roots then plant it into a deeper container to grow for another year. Because I do a few of these each year and because it is good to have some choice to get the best match af tree and rock I usually put a few trees into the box.
With some care and a little luck I end up with a bunch of seedlings with lots of long roots. Perfect for starting root over rock bonsai.
There will probably also be some that are not so good. This one has one really thick root that will make it quite difficult to sit properly on the rock.
I can prune those roots back hard and plant that one as a normal starter tree.
Now I need to look at the rocks. Not all rocks are good for Root over Rock bonsai. The best rocks have some character – peaks, hollows and shoulders. Avoid rocks that are likely to weather and break up as they age. No point putting time and effort into a root over rock arrangement if the rock falls apart before the tree matures!
Look at the rock from all sides to identify the best aspects and shape. Rocks can be upright like a mountainside or horizontal. Find some spots where the tree will sit well and roots will look good running down the surface. It will help the matching process if you have several rocks and a number of trees. Often the shape of the trunk and roots means a tree just won’t sit well on a particular rock but another tree may just be the right sahpe for that one. Soak the rocks in a tub of water. Dry rocks will suck any moisture out of the fine roots as you arrange them on the rock.
Now to match the tree and rock. Aesthetically, the rock will provide the visual weight for the composition. That’s where the viewer’s eye will start, then follow along the rock and on through the trunk of the tree so it is important to have good angles and visual flow where the trunk sits on the rock. Roots flowing along the same lines rather than across will also help the design.
Try a few trees in a few positions on the rock looking for the best arrangement. At this stage I’m really only looking at the angle between the rock and the first section of the trunk. It may help to try to imagine a future canopy above the rock. Will the tree and rock harmonise or compete? Do the roots allow the base of the tree to sit well at the desired angle on the rock? Sometimes just cutting 1 or 2 roots will allow the tree to sit better.
Now arrange the long roots over the surfaces of the rock. It is important to have roots right round the rock. Some down the front and some down the back so as they grow they will really hug the rock tight. At this stage try to avoid straight root runs which don’t look good when the roots have thickened. Roots that twist and meander over the rock following crevices and hollows look more natural and interesting. Bear in mind the visual flow of the rock and try to arrange roots to enhance the flow rather than cross it.
Prepare a length of aluminium foil. It needs to be long enough to wrap around the rock 2 or 3 times. Unless you have selected a really tall rock the foil will be way too wide. For most of my rocks I fold the foil in half lengthwise but for taller rocks you may just need to fold 1/4 or 1/3 down so that the lenght of foil is now as wide as the root part of your rock is tall.
The next part may require some practice or another pair of hands. Sit the tree in place and position the roots on one side of the rock while laying it onto the foil. Cradle the foil and rock in one hand. The weight of the rock should now hold thos eroots in place. use your free hand to position the next roots and fold the foil over to secure them. Continue to position roots and trap them in place as you roll the foil round the rock until you wrap right round the rock. Make sure the foil is pressed into all hollows as you go so that roots are pressed right up against all surfaces of the rock. Continue to wrap the foil round and round until you have 3 or 4 thicknesses holding the roots in place.
Don’t worry if there are no roots showing out the bottom opening. Water can run in the top to keep the roots alive. sooner or later they will grow long enough to appear at the bottom of the rock. The beauty of the foil is that any new roots must grow right along the surface of the rock which is ideal for root over rock style bonsai.
Pour some water into the top opening to make sure the roots are still damp then plant the foil covered rock into a deep container and fill it with potting mix right up to the top of the foil. The pressure of soil against the foil will help press the roots closer to the rock as they grow.
Feed and water well all through the growing season and allow the top to grow freely to maximise root development.
It is still officially winter here at Shibui Bonsai but a few warmer nights has stimulated some buds to start growing so I’ve been stimulated to get on with the repotting.
Yesterday I root pruned and repotted all the small shohin sized bonsai. I’ve found that these little ones do better if they are repotted every year. The roots grow fast enough to completely fill a tiny pot in just one summer so the following year it becomes difficult for water and air to penetrate into the root zone and the trees start to suffer.
Look how tight the new roots are on this one
After pruning the roots there is now room for more roots to grow this summer.
Here’s another shohin sized trident maple. Again, the pot is crammed with roots so I need to remove some to make room for the new roots this summer.
I root prune these little ones just like the larger trees. First cut around the edge of the root ball to remove all the matted new roots that are circling the pot.
Then slice off the mat of roots underneath.
Followed by a rake out of the remaining root ball if needed and maybe sip off any more longer roots. then the tree can go back into the original pot with some fresh potting mix to fill the spaces and give somewhere for new roots to grow.
Starting seedlings through holes in metal plates is not the only way to grow good nebari. I also grow many trees just by regular root pruning to control and direct root growth. Here are some photos to show that method.
Most seedlings develop a strong vertical root to ensure the little tree has access to deeper damp soil so it can survive a dry summer. In bonsai we don’t want deep roots we prefer to see well spread strong lateral surface roots. First step is to cut the vertical root. I usually look for a spot where there are several lateral roots around the trunk and cut just below.
Often I need to also remove any single higher roots. If I leave those to grow they tend to grow faster and create lopsided root system. The remaining lateral roots don’t have to be right opposite. In fact it can be better if roots on one side are higher so the seedling can be planted at an angle with remaining roots horizontal. Initial leaning trunk tends to yield a better informal upright tree.
I also cut the trunk shorter to help push multiple leaders the following summer. Multiple leaders give me better options for bends in the trunk and better taper.
These trimmed seedlings are then potted into pots for a year’s growth. After a year I should end up with something like this small trident. Note that this is not the same tree as above but it is representative of tridents after initial root pruning as shown above.
In the second winter the roots are trimmed again. Note how well the tree has responded to the previous radical root pruning with a mass of lateral roots around the area I cut last winter.
At this stage the tree can go back into a grow pot for controlled development or into the ground for faster growth. The following tree was started using this root pruning technique followed by 2 years in the grow beds. Tridents in the grow beds are dug and root pruned every winter at Shibui Bonsai
In the last post I showed a couple of the trident maples I’m currently digging and pruning.
You may have noticed the very horizontal root spread.
These tridents have been developed using the ‘plate’ method.
Start with a piece of metal sheet with a hole drilled through the middle.
Mine have been cut from old aluminium roadsigns I bought at the scrap metal yard but any sheet metal will do. Some growers use wall or floor tiles but they can be difficult to drill and I found that growing trident roots exert enormous pressure and broke the tiles. CDs are also crushed by growing roots but I’ve used these pieces over and over for nearly 10 years now with excellent results.
I start with seedlings. Thread a seedling through the hole.
Don’t go too far through. if any roots are above the metal one usually grows far quicker and gives an unbalanced root structure.
Note that I’ve placed the trunk on an angle through the sheet. If you want a vertical trunk stand yours upright but make the choice now because next year it will be too late to make changes.
Plant the tree with its metal collar about 1cm under the soil. Too deep an you’re likely to get more roots than you need and they may not be evenly spread.
As the trunks grow fatter the metal starts to cut off circulation in the tree. The tree responds by producing callus and then new roots just above the restricted area. The only option for those new roots is to grow out over the metal in a flat plane. Eventually circulation to the roots under the metal is completely cut off and those roots will die off leaving your tree with a new, flat root system.
I find it far better to keep these trees in pots in the nursery for the first year. In the ground, new roots are forming just as the heat of summer hits and if they don’t make it over the plate and down into deeper soil there is a risk that they may dry out on hot days. Daily watering ensures they will grow and survive until, after a year, the tree looks something like this
Here’s a closer shot of the new roots above the metal plate.
Now those new roots above the metal are pruned quite short.
Then the tree can be planted back into a grow pot or into the ground to thicken up. remember not to plant too deep. Tridents love to grow new roots right near the surface so if these roots are buried deep the tree will grow new ones that may not be as good.
Another year of growth and I now have a thickened trident with developing horizontal nebari. A side benefit is that the base of the trunks tends to swell and buttress far more than with other techniques. You can see that there’s no real advantage in using larger plates. To get good root ramification the roots need to be pruned quite short each year and larger sheets just make it harder for the new roots to reach moisture deeper in the soil.
Another year or 2 and I have the sort of tree shown at the start of this post.
I find that threading trident seedlings is an easy way to produce superior root spread on trident maples but I have also used the same technique on Japanese maples and even on Japanese black pines. It should work with most tree species and I’d be interested to hear from growers who have used it on other trees.