![\"trident](\"https:\/\/shibuibonsai.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/blog-field-grown-roots-4.jpg\")
<\/a>trident after root pruning.<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>Cut vertical roots off completely.<\/p><\/div>\n
I have also noted that, after root pruning, the vast majority of new roots form from the cut ends of the roots.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Roots grow from the end of previous pruning sites.<\/p><\/div>\n
That means that there is very little point leaving roots long during the initial transplant. At some stage in the future they will need to be cut short so you can fit your bonsai into a suitable bonsai pot. This radical root shortening is better done earlier than later.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Cut roots short so they will ramify even more.<\/p><\/div>\n
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Most other deciduous species that I grow as bonsai are treated in a similar manner.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Chinese quince as dug<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>Chinese quince after initial pruning.<\/p><\/div>\n
<\/a>Japanese maple after initial pruning.<\/p><\/div>\n
The Japanese maple shown above had a trunk diameter of 12 cm and recovered well after being dug in 2011.<\/p>\n
Not all species can tolerate such radical reduction of roots. I generally leave more roots on evergreen species such as pines, junipers and most Australian natives. Ficus rubiginosa is one native species that can tolerate extreme root reduction provided it is done during the warmer months.<\/p>\n
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Growing trees in the ground or larger pots is a way to increase the trunk size quickly but as the trunk is growing, so are the roots underneath. At some stage the roots will need to fit into a bonsai … Continue reading