Japanese Black Pine Cuttings

For those of you who propagate your own plants here is an interesting new slant on Black pine seedling cuttings.This year I was lucky enough to get some Japanese Black pine seed from Scott in Canberra. Black pine seed is hard to find in Australia since quarantine have restricted the import of seed. I have been experimenting with growing black pine cuttings for a number of years with mixed success after reading about commercial grown P. radiata cuttings. The key to success is to use juvenile growth for the cuttings. P. radiata growers prune stock trees to force a flush of juvenile growth that is then set as cuttings giving good success.

For some time we have been aware of a technique for striking cuttings of very young black pine seedlings by cutting the stem at where it changes to purple and striking the top as a cutting. This is supposed to give better root structure to the resulting plant. I have trialled this but in my opinion the technique is slower, makes more work and the results are no better than using well root pruned seedlings.

I do, however, routinely prune my black pine seedlings to force low shoots that will give options for branching and can help to thicken the base of the resulting tree. Without early pruning you get a long, thin trunk with no low shoots.

This year after pruning the seedlings I recognised that the left over tops were the ultimate in juvenile pine growth and decided to test the rooting ability. The results were very good as shown in the step by step pics below.

Black pine seedlings

The tall, thin seedlings in this pic have not been pruned. The ones with multiple shoots on the right have already been pruned once to show the multiple shoots from a pruned seedling.

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

strip lower leaves

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

dip cuttings in rooting compound

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

set cuttings in propagating mix

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

4 weeks later.....

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

14 have roots, only 1 not yet showing roots

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

trim roots to promote even better nebari

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The first set of cuttings consisted of tips about 5 cm long. A subsequent try used pieces up to 9 cm long and cuttings from the stem without tips as well as tip cuttings ( see pic below) but results are not available at the time of this post. The cutting mix is 50/50 coco peat/ perlite and the cuttings are placed under intermittent mist to maintain humidity. I don’t have bottom heat. The original cuttings were taken in January (mid summer in Australia) and potted up in mid February. The majority produced multiple roots from the base of the cutting which should give good nebari in the resulting trees.As you can see, the advantage of this technique is that you can get 2 or more trees from each seedling as well as getting more trees with good rootage. In future trials I will try this at other times of the year. It will also be interesting to see how long the seedlings (and the resulting cutting grown plants) retain their juvenile rooting ability.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

20 thoughts on “Japanese Black Pine Cuttings

  1. Pingback: Japanese Black Pine Cuttings. | Nichigo Bonsai

    • Hi Christopher, Thanks for your interest. I have no doubt that this technique will work on all plants. One of the basic premises in growing cuttings is the younger the material the easier and quicker it will root. I believe that white pines are a bit easier to grow from mature cuttings. The variety ‘Zushio’ is always grown from cuttings and I have struck some cuttings from pieces taken home from club workshops. Just can’t keep them growing for more than a few years due to our severe summers.

  2. Hi there
    Very impressive . I have not heard of your 2 for 1 technique . Makes great sense. Now in Aussie how do you provide a cold spell (60 days) in order for your pines to have a little rest every year. Will they not just burn out after a few years without that needed rest. I am on my way to Japan on Tuesday for a month . If you want I can buy seed of any of the junies and pines and off them to you. The seed comes in sterilized packs so is legal to import at least it is here in Canada. Drop me a line.
    Good luck
    Brian

    • Hi Brian, Hope you enjoy the trip. Australia is a big palce covering many climate zones. I live in the south with 4 distinct seasons and winter temps regularly down to 3 below feezing and occasional nights 7 below. That said, black pines are pretty adaptable and growers in tropical areas of QLD grow them successfully. I have not been able to grow white pines successfully. i think it is just too hot here in summer for them.
      Thanks for the offer of seed but imported seed needs a phytosanitary certificate to ensure it does not carry any of the diseases we don’t already have and could endanger our tree growing industries. we already have way too many pests and diseases because of illegal imported seed and plants. I do have some cones maturing on one black pine in the garden and recently found several more black, white and red pines producing cones. just need to get someone to harvest for me.

  3. Thanks for the info Neil. Can you elaborate on why the cuttings were potted up in Feb if they were cut off in Jan? Did they sit in the rooting hormone? I thought (maybe naively) that they had to be potted straight after cutting, or am I reading the info wrong?
    Thanks in advance.

    • Hi Sean, Maybe different interpretation of terms. The cuttings were put in (set) the same day ( within minutes) they were pruned off the plants. They were potted up a month later when they had grown new roots. Hope this clarifys it.
      Neil

    • Hi Michael, You will find rooting compound at your nursery. Sometimes referred to as ‘rooting hormone’ but its not really a hormone at all. I use Rootex G, a gel formula that has added nutrient and sticks well to the cuttings. Rooting compound also comes as a powder or liquid. Any of them should work ok.

  4. Good effort Neil, I’ve been taking cutting from new branches on an older tree with some success but will give this a go to try and thicken them up a bit at the base.

    Have you ever tried sitting the cutting in anything similar to a hydroponic setup (without the lights, just nutrient rich water)? I was thinking it might be an idea….

    • Hi Mark, I have had mixed success with cuttings from mature trees. some years up to 50% success, other times no strikes at all. Any ideas at all are welcome. Nutrient is one important part of striking cuttings so there may be merit in trying hydroponic nutrient solution as a striking medium. Does anyone have the time and equipment to trial this?

  5. That looks great Neil. Just read your post on Ausbonsai…My question is do you take cuttings of juvenile growth off older trees too? Or do you only take cuttings off seedlings? Could I take cuttings from this years growth off an older plant and would you have any suggestions for this? Thanks in advance.

    • Hi Grant, Do not confuse new growth on old trees with juvenile growth. Look closely at the leaves on the pine seedlings – they are single leaves rather than needles in pairs. This is juvenile growth for pines and usually only occurs for few months on JBP seedlings. Some pine species display juvenile growth for a year or 2 before maturing to adult needles (P. halapensis, P. pinea, P. radiata).
      Most plants go through a life cycle which includes juvenile growth when they are young and mature growth when they are older. Some plants will produce juvenile growth when they are older if they are given a real shock – very hard pruning is one way to produce this.
      Older plants go through a yearly cycle of producing new shoots that mature to woody growth by the end of summer – this is not juvenile growth.
      I have struck cuttings from older pines but strike rates are variable and always low. Best results have been from recently matured shoots taken in winter, treated with rooting hormone and struck under mist in the propagating area. I tried striking young candles (note young growth is not juvenile growth) in spring and summer but have not succeeded yet.
      Strike rates of these juvenile cuttings are very high. Occasionally I get juvenile shoots after pruning black pines hard but have not tried using them as cuttings – more things to test (sigh)

  6. Pingback: Bonsai: Grow Your Own Bonsai from Cuttings, Seeds, and Saplings | WWW.MYINFOPAGE.NET

  7. Pingback: Japanese Black Pine 2012 Seedlings | Aijou Bonsai

  8. Hey very helpful stuff glad to see both black and white pines promoted throught the world. I have a 25 year old 28 inch grafted white pine myself and p. Thunbergii as well. Would you give us some specifics on your dip n’ stick method? What hormones are you using and at what strength? How long are the cuttings exposed to the rooting agent? Do you wound the stems? We would softwood cuttings routinely, dogwoods maples, all things woody by cutting about 1/8 of the way into the base of the rooting end of the cutting with a razor blade for an inch or less along the stem to help induce rooting. Thanks much!

    • Hi Rob, Apologies for omitting the info you ask about but thanks for the prompt. I have been using Rootex G as the root promoting agent but have recently swapped to a liquid and have been experimenting with foliar application with that one. I’ll have to check the strength of both these. Dip time varies from 3 sec to several minutes because I prepare a few then prick them into the rooting medium in a batch. i don’t think length of dip has made any difference.
      I do not would stems of cuttings destined for bonsai. For bonsai I want a good radial root system all at one level and, while wounding one side of the cutting helps produce more roots, you end up with a lop sided root system which is undesirable for bonsai.

  9. I never have much luck with pine cuttings. I’ve tried many species, but they just don’t like having that taproot cut. A sharp razor blade just below the purple, dip them into rooting powder, and placed in moist akadama and pumice. A few days later, and my seedlings are lying face down in the soil. I’ll pull them from the soil to discover that the stem is shriveled, and limp yet the rooting powder is still in place. :(
    I wonder if root pots would be a safer alternative to severing the taproot. Do you have experience with them? They are cloth-like mesh bag that air-prune roots resulting in bushier/thick growth in both the roots and the foliage.

    • I have seen rocket pots that air prune roots. They might solve your problem but I think mastering the technique properly will give far superior results. I do not cut my seedlings at the purple any more. The technique does work but the results are no better than proper root pruning in my experience. I have posted some photos of how I cut the tap root of seedlings to encourage them to produce lateral roots. i find the results at least as good and much quicker than the seedling cutting technique.
      Hard to offer advice on your problem because you have given little detail of your conditions. 1. I find that too much powder on the cuttings can make the stems rot. 2. Humidity around the leaves is critical because there are no roots to take in water. Cuttings need to be covered with a clear cover to conserve moisture or placed under intermittent mist to stop them dehydrating. I get 100% survival from seedlings with the tap root shortened and about 60-80% strike from cuttings taken from juvenile growth off the seedlings.

      Neil




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