Pines and junipers are quite slow to recover from transplant but this year’s transplants from the Shibui Bonsai grow beds are now looking strong and healthy.
There’s only 2 Japanese Black pines this year so they are not included in the catalogues.
Both these trees are in 20 cm orchid pots. That, and my fingers, should give a pretty good indication of the size of these trunks.
Both have quite thick lower trunks.
17-1 has an excellent flared base.
These pines $110 each + delivery costs if applicable.
We also have a small number of field grown Juniperus chinensis ‘shimpaku’. These trees usually have a strong, straight growth habit so most of the ones offered for sale lack trunk movement and interest. These ones have had trunks wired when they were very young to give lots of bends and swirls – more like the wild looking junipers available at Japanese bonsai nurseries.
Junipers grow quite slowly so it does take quite a few years to produce trees of this size. Adding bends to the trunks and branches adds even more years to the timeframe so these junipers are a bit more expensive than equivalent sized maples or pines. If you want a juniper with character contact Shibui Bonsai.
These junipers would be great material to take to advanced workshops. Dead wood and shari on these trunks will only enhance the dynamic movement.
The black pines have been growing slower than usual after summer decandling. It is possible that is a response to less fertiliser than previous years. I am pleased to have small buds on these pines but I’ll try to feed more often through next winter and see if that makes a difference next summer.
Here are the clusters of buds that are growing after candle pruning in mid December (early summer here). Note that these summer buds do not have the bare ‘neck’ that the stronger spring candles have. Not having bare sections means I can have much more compact growth and better ramification. Needles should also be smaller on these smaller buds which will add to the impression of a mature tree.
Towards the end of summer I will reduce the number of buds in these clusters. Like all bonsai I try to only have 2 shoots at any place on the tree to reduce the chances of bulges and inverse taper in the trunks and branches.
I have mentioned before that decandling is only used on more mature trees. For the trees that are developing, where I want the trunks to thicken as rapidly as possible I allow them to grow freely for 1-2 years then prune back hard to the lower needles. Pruning like that also triggers new buds to grow from the remaining needles and those new buds can be used for either a new growth cycle if the tree still needs to grow or to start making branches.
If pruning is done in autumn or winter the new buds will grow in spring and are usually strong. If pines are pruned in summer the resulting buds will be smaller and more compact similar to the ones that grow after summer candle cutting.
These pictures show the shoots that have grown after winter hard pruning on 2 of the developing pines at Shibui Bonsai. You can see that these shoots are quite strong but have plenty of needles close to the base that will give me somewhere to prune to next time.
A couple of weeks ago I showed you how I repotted my Callistemon sieberii bonsai.
Despite removing quite a lot of roots this tree has just continued to grow without any apparent setback. The shoots that were left intact have continued to grow and will need trimming soon.
Summer has proved to be a good time to repot banksias and a couple of the shibui bonsai banksias were due for it this year.
When I first started to grow banksias for bonsai they were not very successful. Most just lasted a year or two then suddenly died. Given that banksias have a reputation for being quite sensitive I just thought the genus was not suitable then I started to see some great banksia bonsai and gradually pieced together a couple of important facts about banksia bonsai. Continue reading
Today is the last day of 2017 which means it is well into summer at Shibui Bonsai and that means it is time for repotting some of the bonsai.
Last week I gave my Callistemon its annual after flowering prune. This one is Callistemon sieberii – River bottlebrush which flowers later than most Callistemon species, normally Early-mid December here.
Some say it cannot be done…..
Here at Shibui Bonsai I’ve often found that much of what ‘they’ tell us is not completely true so I’m often putting aspects of bonsai wisdom to the test.
Pine seed is currently very difficult to obtain here in Australia so many growers are looking for alternative ways to propagate pines for bonsai so even though the ‘experts’ tell us it cannot be done I’m trying to grow more pines as cuttings. Continue reading
Some of you have been waiting patiently for me to get round to taking all the photos and compiling the online catalogues. You can now see many of the trees I have available this year by clicking on the links on the Catalogue Page
Watering is once again top of the list as the days get warmer and longer. I have found that rain often does not provide enough water to keep my bonsai watered. I guess the leaf canopy of my bonsai shelters the pot so most of the rain probably does not even make it to the roots. That means I still water, even after it has rained. Continue reading
October is a very busy Bonsai month for Shibui Bonsai. Early in the month Canberra Bonsai Society holds their annual show and Shibui Bonsai has a sales table. This year the show was in a different venue which meant more space for the trees on show and for the traders. Continue reading
Most of the trident maples now have tiny pink buds where new leaves are emerging to show that spring has arrived at Shibui Bonsai.
I’ve repotted most of the deciduous trees that need doing this year so it is time to move on to the evergreens. Some growers now repot pines in autumn but I’m still doing most of mine at the traditional spring repot time.
Today it was time to get a few pines into their first bonsai pots.
This twin trunk Japanese Black Pine has been developing slowly over the past 15 years or so. It has an impressive nebari and some well placed branches and now it is time to start developing better ramification. I think the restricted space in the smaller pot should help control the new growth and help the process.
Black pine after root pruning
Among the roots lies a clue to the origins of this tree.
This is one of the pines mentioned in the previous post. Seedlings were threaded through a hole in stainless steel disks to see if pines could be developed in a similar way to the maples as outlined in previous posts. Pines do not root quite as well as maples and only 2 out of 5 survived the process but the experiment did prove that it can be done.
In this case I put 2 seedlings through the same hole. In the process of growing new roots they have fused into a single twin trunk tree.
the steel disc
I’ve selected a round drum pot which has adequate size for a developing tree but still a reasonable match to the tree.
Now we wait until December for the first round of candle pruning to start the process of developing branches with full ramification.